Goodbye Darwin, Hello Litchfield

Our last day in the very Top End was to be semi-educational. After all, today is officially the first day back at school for the kids. 

We went to the museum where there was s very detailed description of Cyclone Tracy (not too much different from my normal experience when my Tracy is in clean up mode).... and also some very interesting displays of “Sweetheart” the crocodile and all the other local sea life. 

We then went to the wharf to the RFDS display and 3D stories of the bombing of Darwin. This was extremely interesting and informative and I am sure we all walked away from that much wiser. 

Our day has ended and we got ourselves ready for the short trip to Litchfield tomorrow. 

On arrival, we were greeted with a nice quiet park where we could pick our own site. We found a nice spot away from everyone else, that we later discovered to also be the only spot where Telstra reception could be received unless you were at a designated spot by the front office. We were also right amongst the local Cane Toads. Disgusting enormous toads that appeared after dusk but quickly took off as we tried wacking it with a stick. 

There are swimming holes and waterfalls around Litchfield everywhere. I am sure we only saw a few of them, but nonetheless they were amazing. 

We also did our first 4wd track to the Lost City which was fun. I did chicken out and stopped short of crossing a flowing river that would have most likely seeped through the bottom door panels, blaming it on only having standard road tyres

The bats at Wangi Falls were in the thousands, but thankfully also off the main area we were. They stink and are noisy and I am glad not to have seen them earlier. 

Our last day in Litchfield saw us heading back North through Batchelor to Berry Springs. This is yet another natural hot spring fed lake, with crystal clear waters and small fish that took great delight in biting any bare skin that stayed motionless for long enough. Thank the Lord I was wearing my bathers this time and saved everyone the sight of me racing up the steps with a wet fish slapping me with every running lope. 

Tomorrow we are off to Kakadu. It suddenly dawned on us that this means we only have 3 days left here in the Top End before our rapid descent to the cooler weather begins

Sigh........

A day for us.

We had read about some fish feeding opportunities at the harbour and decided that would be our entertainment for the morning. We found our way to Cullen Bay and ambled gown to the wharf where we were told the fish would be. Sure enough, there was 30-40 large Milkfish and another 10-15 Diamond backed mullet hanging around waiting for tourists like us to turn up. The local wharf cafe puts stale bread and crusts in a basket so that we can grab it and throw it in for the fish. It was an amazing experience and the kids loved hanging down precariously over the edge of the wharf with a piece of bread just touching the water waiting for the fish to come up and snatch it away. 

We then wandered around checking out the local shops and the ferry terminal, and once again happened to bump into our travel companions Simone and her boys Theo and Tallin (aka @gypsydystandwanderlust). We went back to the fish with them before finding a shady spot on the grass overlooking the beach, where we had lunch. 

Next location was to visit my cousin Paul, I don’t think I have seen him for 30+ years, yet thanks to the power of Facebook, it felt like I had caught up with him every few months. After chatting for a while, we headed into the Wave Pool complex, which cost us a measly $18 for the family. This was a huge chlorinated pool that catered for all ages and had a wave making machine that ran for 10 minutes every 10 minutes. 

Even the car park was pretty funky. Ticketless with auto number plate recognition, 1st 2 hours free and $2 for the 3rd hour. That is how to get people into town on a Saturday. 

We all went back to Paul and Victoria’s place for tea, armed with some BBQ meat and other bits, along with a reasonable dose of bourbon and beer. 

It turned into a great night and catchup with lots of laughs and chatting. 

We didn’t hang around too late, because tomorrow (Sunday) was one of my main highlights of this trip. I had booked a fishing charter with Tyler and Dylan to catch us some big ones. 

It did mean we had a horribly early start (wake up 4:50 am to be there at 5:45am), but that is what we do for a good day fishing. 

And a good day it was ... although it turned out to be relatively quick. We got our boat limit of 16 Jew fish and 24 Golden snapper within 2 hours (after a 2 hour ride out to the spot). This meant we now had another 2 hour trip back in to be on shore by 12:30 rather than the planned 3:30. 

It didn’t really matter in the end. Dylan had caught the majority of the fish and one of the biggest also. He was completely worn out and fell asleep on the way back, dreaming of all the fish he got. 

Crikey -It’s hot

A nice easy 3 hour drive from Katherine saw us arrive at Howard Springs BIG4 just after 1pm. 

And it was hot. And muggy. It’s the middle of July and we are in 34 degree heat with close to 70% humidity. 

The kids took off straight away to the pool, whilst I sweated more than a chicken in a crocodile cage as I set up the van outside and Tracy sorting the inside (with the air conditioning on mind you ☀️). 

We joined the kids for a swim soon after before taking off to see the renowned Mindil Beach Markets. It was a bit like most street markets, except that every body who lived within 100km seemed to be here trying to jostle their way past me. 

With the constant sweat train running out of my pores, I was quite comfortable using anyone who brushed past me as a human towel. 

Apart from all the food stalls, we were treated to an amazing sunset. 

The temperature slowly but surely settled back to a comfortable level that still allowed us to wear shorts and singlets yet not be worried about the small river of sweat tagging along 

On Friday, we decided to seek out a local waterpark. This place was amazing. All absolutely free and immaculately maintained. We happened to meet our new travel friends again (Simone and kids otherwise known as @gypsydustandwanderlust ) which brightened up our kids attitudes even more

This place had waterslides, a huge shallow pool, a waterpark.... it was beautiful and as such, we spent the entire day here. 

When we did finally leave, we drove around to East Point to soak in the views and somehow found ourselves having a beer at the Fannie Bay Yacht Club. 

Sensational way to end the day. 

Hot Springs

Everybody we spoke to before starting this journey, said we must go to Mataranka and Bitter Springs. So we did. 

There was s definite change of climate as we approached the last 30km or so, with many more palm trees and a lot less dry undergrowth. The termite mounds had tripled in both quantity and size, and the foliage was much denser. 

Parking was well catered for outside the local van park, and we wandered through to find a stunning tropical oasis. Despite being within the confines of the caravan park, this was completely free and superbly maintained. 

The water is around 30 degrees, crystal clear and has a slight flow thanks to the endless supply of natural water from the source just 30 metres away that has apparently originated in the limestone in the far top end of Qld and broken surface again here for us to enjoy. 

After an hour or so of splashing about and agreeing this was going to be a stop on the homeward leg of our journey, we said goodbye to our newly acquired travelling companions ( @gypsydustandwanderlust) who happened to be here as well. 

Just up the road was Bitter Springs. Much harder to find a park with the van, and we ended up in the mud on the side of the road - I suspect illegally parked, but with this heat, I didn’t care. 

This was vastly different from Mataranka in that it was a completely natural river, with a faster flow, and full of fallen logs, lilly pads and other growth that needed to be avoided as you floated down the crystal clear warm flowing spring. 

After 3-4 “floats” we said goodbye to another family we had originally met in Daly Waters and set off to Katherine. 

Not sure why, but we had both assumed Katherine was going to be a tropical town filled with lush green-ness. Alas, no....

Maybe in the wet season it is, but right now it is a hot dry dusty place with a river running through it (and more hot springs!). 

We are booked into Shady Lane van park which is 15 minutes out of town and on the road to the Gorges, which is the main reason we came here. 

The park is very quiet and nice enough, but still no green grass. We were parked right next to the pool, which was well utilised for the times we were here. 

Day 2 was spent on a 3 Gorge tour. Fascinating information and amazing scenery that will never display correctly in photos. We spotted about 5 freshwater crocs on the banks on the boat trip, and we also got to swim in one of the upper pools where they are “pretty sure” there are no crocs. 

Our final day took us nearly 100km North to Edith Falls. Again, we travelled through a dry dusty arid area that suddenly opened up into a series of lakes and the only waterfall in the region to flow all year round. 

The hot, dry 35 minute walk up the side of a mountain was well worth the incredible swimming hole above the falls, in another crystal clear lake that appeared to be deeper than the abyss. 

Clambering down the other side of the mountain, we had a late lunch and jumped into the lower lake, which  offered a 150m swim to a smaller waterfall. 

We were now completely exhausted and hit the road for the hour long trip back and to start packing up ready for the trip to Darwin tomorrow. 

The busiest pub in nowhere land

Nestled in the scrub about 600km from Darwin or 900km from Alice Springs, is a little country pub. It is here in Daly Waters that we are settling in for the night to see what all the fuss is about. It is only 2:30pm as we arrive, and we are already faced with being stuck in the farthest corner of the paddock they are calling a caravan park. Luckily, our newly found travel companions from Devils Marbles got here slightly ahead of us and told us to get into the small overflow non-powered spot. This turned out to be perfect, with lots of trees and our own scrub paddock behind us that may just have a tree in it that will be well watered overnight.

 

To describe the town as unique is an understatement. Even calling it a town is an understatement. The fuel, the gift shop, the caravan park, the pool and the pub are all run by the pub. Maybe there is something else to be seen here, but I didn’t get past the pub and it’s adornment of parting gifts left by the many thousands of travellers over the years. T-Shirts, Bra’s, thongs, number plates, hats etc. if it can be left behind, it is donated and then hung up somewhere for public display. 

And the pool. What can be better than ordering a pint of  Coopers Pale Ale and sitting by a crystal clear pool while the kids splash about. 

And then Happy Hour started. $4 beers. 🍺. Oh well..... we may as well join in. With about 150 -200 meals being served, the pub did an amazing job. Live country music being played on stage, kids making friends, adults making friends, more beer (just not $4 anymore). I have a headache. 

The morning was a slow and easy packup (something to do with last night I think). 

We had a stroll around the souvenir shop and then headed off on one of our shortest trips in a while. 2 hours to Mataranka and ending up at Katherine a further 1 hour for our next 4 nights. 
I still have a headache.....